Neate S65; Yakushi S216a. Shipton, with his sometime climbing partner Bill Tilman, was one of the foremost climbers of the twentieth century. Known for his lightweight expeditions, he led the 1951 Everest reconnaissance but was replaced as leader for the 1953 Everest expedition by John Hunt. He subsequently explored and climbed in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. He inscribed this copy of his autobiography to Denise and Charles Evans. Denise was the daughter of Nea Morin, and to date the only female president of the Alpine Club. Charles Evans was deputy leader of the successful 1953 Everest expedition, and leader of the successful 1955 Kangchenjunga expedition. Shipton describes a Himalayan expedition in 1952 made with Evans and others including Ed Hillary; he also writes of Evans, in making him deputy of the 1953 Everest expedition, “I had formed the highest opinion of his ability and temperament” (p. 212).